First Norte

Yesterday you could see the weather changing. A Norte was coming in. Norte is what the Mexicans call a cold front from the north. Makes sense, doesn't it? A huge black cloud bank developed over the Yucatan and was moving our way. By evening it began to rain. Thunder and lightening! Howling wind really drove the rain. Lights flickered. Bright bolts of lightening. Loud claps of thunder. Temperature began to drop. All night the wind blew, rattling even thing that wasn't secure. Of course, it sounded a whole lot worse than it was. We closed all windows and doors. At midnight Ed realized that the shade sail was still up in the back. So, out he went and took it down. We slept under the comforter and by morning it was cold! That's 72 degrees! Down from mid 80's. Humidtiy had dropped to the high 50's. If it stays cold the Mexican folks will break out the wool stocking caps and down vest. Really. Nortes can be welcome respits from hot humid days. Unfortunatley it can cause good size waves in the channel and the Capitania de Puerto (harbormaster) will "close the port" which means smaller boats are not allowed out. No diving. No snorkeling. A day or so is fine, but if it lasts longer everyone gets grumpy. Divers who came to dive can't. Dive shops aren't making sales and no money means boat captains and divemasters don't get paid. So, it can get tense. But, for now we'll enjoy 70's with low humidity. Actually, Peggy will take the cooler temps any time! She just needs a little heat in the shower. Turn the temperature up on the water heater, Ed.

Tramite (Paperwork)

It seems that with some things down here, it is impossible to complete them with the first attempt. Especially anything to do with the government, utilities, etc.  And, officials don't give out complete instructions. Those are often given one at  time. Satisfying the first requirement means you get to do Step #2. And when Step #2 is finished, you get to go to Step #3. Ed went to pay our real estate taxes the other day. It used to be Peggy's job but now Ed can get a discount because he's a certified old codger.  He went with last year's bill and his old-age discount card. And, cash. After standing in a slow moving line, he was told that he needed two copies of his card and two copies of his passport. Why? No answer. Can't pay without copies and you can't get copies at the office!  So, off to our official copy provider who owns a little variety store.  When he sees us coming he knows to ask "Mas copias?"  Ed felt success at hand now that he had copies. But wait! Last year paying taxes was separate from paying annual garbage collection fees. Of course, no sign or notice indicating any change to that this year. So Ed went with only enough cash to pay the taxes. Again, long slow lines. Ed got his tax bill along with a garbage bill. Yikes. The cashier is at the next window. Both bills must be paid at the same time! Gratefully the cashier said she would set the bills aside until Ed walked back home to get more cash. Success at last! Three trips to pay taxes of $65 US and garbage of $30.  Now, hammock remembering that life is filled with unrecognized benefits - Ed got some good exercise, he got to practice his Spanish, our taxes are low and there's always the hammock out back.

Almost skunked!

Edwin came by this AM and wanted to know if we wanted to go fishing. Peggy was off to yoga but Ed- Si, senor! So, Edwin, his wife Mariana, daughter April and Ed took off. Bottom fishing for trigger fish. Bought bait and we were on our way! We fished just out from the marina. Lots of bites. Lots of big bites. Edwin reeled in the first trigger. Then, the second. Then, the third. All the while Ed was just feeding the fish ( lots of bites but no fish). Finally Edwin caught another! Enough is enough! So we  trolled  back, trying to catch a barracuda (Edwin's favorite), but no luck. Edwin offered to cook the fish at his parents cockteleria (small restaurant) El Farito ( the lighthouse). As usual it was perfect. Great food , good friends (Ed's mother Aida even peeled the skin off Peggy's fish for her), and of course, a cold Modelo beer!  At the end of the evening, Aida, as always gave her standard farewell, "Hasta manana" (until tomorrow) as if it's expected that we will stop by again tomorrow and there's a good chance we will!  

Cinepolis

We go to the movies a lot more down here than in the US. Several reasons.  First, the theater here is a 5 minute walk instead of a 30 minute drive. Secondly, virtually all of the movies are in English with Spanish subtitles. And thirdly, it's  a lot cheaper than in the US. Especially if you go to the matinees. Matinees cost about $3 US and prime time usually  $5. Of course, matinees occur the same time Ed is usually napping in his hammock or Peggy is taking her afternoon swim.
Last week we saw Prisoners. A pretty intense and somewhat savage movie about 2 young girls being kidnapped and the lengths that one of the fathers went to in order to get them back. Last night we went to The Hunger Games - Catching Fire. We had ridden our bikes by at 5:00 and saw that it was on at 6:00. So, we hurried over, bought our popcorn and took our seats with lots of families there. We were surprised to find out it was in Spanish! You'd think we were in Mexico or something. Ooops! We went down to the lobby and a very nice young man, who spoke very little English finally understood us and told us that the English version was @ 7:00. No problem. So we waited a few minutes and then watched the flick. The theater was pretty full which is not normal. Usually we are almost by ourselves. Great movie. Amazing special effects. Peggy thinks Ed, when he has his beard, looks like President Snow! Ed thinks Peggy looks like Katniss.
We saw a young man we  know from Mexico City at the English version and asked why he didn't see it in Spanish.  He said he liked to see movies in the language they are written and it's good practice.  Maybe we should stay and watch the Spanish version next time!  Or not!  Hard to imagine ever being as fluent in Spanish as he is in English!

The Chilean Navy has arrived!

B. E. ESMERALDA

A few days ago we noticed a beautiful 4 masted sailing ship anchored off the downtown pier. It was absolutely stunning. Bright white and flying the state of Texas flag. Ummmm. Well, we found out it was not the Texas flag, but the flag of Chile. Lynn, who always knows the latest, told us it was a Chilean naval training ship on a 7 month mission. She also found out that we could tour the ship! So, with our friend Gwen, we sauntered downtown. Only left behind one small thing.  As is normal for us here, we didn't have our wallets.  We needed to have an ID to sign in and be allowed on the magnificent vessel. We were lucky enough to see a friend there who was carrying one and it got us in as his "family".  Thanks Dad!
Wow. What a ship. 113m long. 13m beam. 21  sails. A compliment of 321- 21 officers, 97 midshipman, 132 seaman and 69 others in training. Men and women. The training cruise will take 259 days and 30415 nautical miles. It sailed from Chile north, through the Panama Canal, to MX and from here to  Miami, Puerto Rico, Curacao, Brazil, around the Cape and back to Chile.
We had several young guides show us around and tell us about the ship. All dressed in beautiful white crisp uniforms. Both Peggy and Gwen thought the officers in training were very informative and, oh yeah, really incrediby cute (Richard Gere has nothing on them). Ed was only interested in the ship. 
How could we have done this without one important thing, other than an ID?  A camera to show off the officers, and oh yeah, the ship, too!  We weren't able to get on the ship again but Ed was able to rouse Peggy from a pretty wonderful nap (as is obvious from the pic) to go down to the pier and get a picture of one of the "older" officers.
Here's a link for better pics:  https://www.google.com/search?q=B.E.Esmeralda+chile&rlz=1C1VASA_enMX510MX510&espv=210&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=MfmQUrP9JIny2QWY-4DoBA&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1318&bih=601

                              Sailors have to climb to the yardarm to take down the flags at 5PM.

                       All flags down but one.  Then the men start down the rope ladders.  At the beginning of their                                               descent they actually are hanging up side down.

                                                  Peggy in her nap uniform with a mid-shipman.

                                                        Sunset in the background.  

Biggest Mexican flag ever! Just off the main ferry pier.

Self Healing Cars

Our Tracker healed himself over the summer! He must enjoy long periods of rest. About a week before we left CZM  last April, the he was coughing, sputtering, and stalling even while were driving down the street. It was way too close to our departure to do much with it, so we stored it at Chuck & Moni's house for the summer. They filled it with gas and fuel stabilizer, disconnected the battery and covered it. Since they are pretty much on the same summer/winter schedule that we are, they thankfully stored it for us.Chuck said when they returned to the island, a few weeks before us, he connected the battery and it started right up. They drove it some and filled the tank. After a time or two, it purred like a kitten. Just like the way it did when

our mechanic friend Bob had it working in CO. As Bob said "God bless self-healing cars". Amen.

Priorities

Pretty high on our list of things to do quickly was to go to the supermarket. Not necessarily for our food, but for our animal friends. Our orange cat friend appeared, friendly and hungry as usual. Her friend, the Siamese kitty, followed close behind.  As you may remember, the orange kitty "moved in" when Dan and Mary Kay were here last summer.  And, as we mentioned, the kitties were spoiled by Matt and Deb, our neighors, this summer where the bar was raised for cat care.  In the competition for the kitties' affection,we have taken to feeding them chicken scraps.

The sugar? That's for the hummingbirds and banana quits. These little guys are voracious as in years past! Peggy can fill up both feeders (one front and one back) in the morning and they will be empty by early afternoon. It's not unusual to see 8-10 banana quits hanging around, taking turns feeding.  Peggy is convinced that the banana quits are smart enough to all get on one side of the feeder, tilting  it in order to drain every bit of the sugar water.

And then there is Toby, the big strong, totally untrained but lovable dog up the street is still there. Barking, throwing around his 5 gallon bucket and howling as usual  He has greeted us as long lost friends with lots of licks and nosing through the fence.  Gotta have treats for him, too!

After a few weeks of maintaining these feeding schedules, it's time to get back to the store for more pet food.

These are a type of birds of paradise that we don't have to feed!

These buddies are a different story

The door where the Siamese kitty routinely peeks under to see if Matt and Deb are there.

Our buddy, Toby, taking a break from construction with his bucket.