Friday, February 27, 2015

Bacalar, the perfect antidote to Cozumel Carnaval! Kohunlich.Part 1

Each year we dread Carnaval time in Cozumel.  Bah Humbug we say to the noise, the imposed merriment, the noise, the competition for the loudest float, the recording that begins at 9:00 PM each night screaming about the circus that is in town, the noise, the loud music until dawn, and the noise. This year we were bent on getting out of Dodge and we did it.  

Bacalar is a sweet little town about 4 hours away.  We loved the quiet, the friendly people, the toned down family oriented festivities at the pretty town square, the quiet, the beautiful lagoon with its crystal clear water and the quiet.  We stayed at Casitas Carolina, a quiet place with 8 funky guest rooms and an eclectic group of fellow travellers.


After a restful night there, we asked long term employee Modesto, if he knew a guide to take us to Kohunlich and Dzibanche, a few lonely Mayan ruins. Peggy had tried to arrange a tour online with no success.  If she had only known about Modesto!  He recommended Reggie. After talking with him for a few short minutes, we knew he was our man and taxi #36, driven by Candalaria was our deluxe chariot!

 After a lively hour and a half ride to Kohunlich, we climbed to the top of the ruler's pyramid overlooking the main plaza and Ed "spoke" to his people. Then Reggie said that one of the king's duties was to be sacrificed. Ed offered magnanimously to substitute Reggie for him.

Here is the king and his stand-in addressing the multitude!  This platform is so tall that we couldn't get a picture of Candelaria who was bowing down in the grass.

A good deal of  painstaking excavation and restoration work was going on. These guys are making stucco: mixing various types of sandy soil and letting it dry in the sun.
A wonderful feature at Kohunlich is the masks on the great pyramid. The palapa is there to protect the masks as well as to shade the workers and visitors. Everything is this city was painted red. Some frescoes still had evidence of the paint. These boys do not. Extremely intricate carvings.And we're not sure why they are wearing scuba masks on their foreheads!
Peggy and Reggie are discussing something of great importance, which of course she has forgotten, in front of a la ceiba tree. These trees have special meaning to the Mayans as connections from the sky to the earth to the underworld.
Archaeologist Victor Segovia who "discovered" Kohunlich in the 1920's dug up this tree and planted it upside down to see if it would grow. Sure enough, the roots sprouted leaves and the trunk grew new roots.
This photo needs to be turned 90 degrees and we don't know how to do it. So turn your computer to the right see the horizontal line of thin rock chips. This line indicates that the structure below is all original and the rock work above it is reconstructed. These lines are all over the structures at Kohunlich.

Sunday, January 11, 2015

New stories from CZM

Cozumel stories? Actually not. These are the bears that we had made from the mink coat that Peggy's dad gave to her mom one Christmas. One bear for each of the grandchildren and one to join the favorite bears, Philip and Ginger, that belonged to Peggy's mom. Special Christmas memories.

Peg's Mom and Dad had this maple drop leaf buffet. Harry had painted it bright yellow. We tried to strip it to its natural wood finish but it was deeply stained from the yellow enamel. So, after years of sitting in the shop, it was finally sanded and Ed painted it to match our funky breezeway door. Peggy is happy to have it back in its rightful place.
Shortly after we arrived we stopped into Eco Divers for their normal (or abnormal?) show. Usually the show consists of drinking and telling stories. This particular night it was Jorge (left) playing with his best friend Polo. Polo is a teacher and a musician. The playing didn't last long and then it was on to drinking and telling stories!
Coming home one night we were greeted at our front gate by this big boy (or girl). He moved out of the way to let us in and so we took this photo of him beside the front porch. Even the cats ignore him! He's a bruiser! As stars do, he eventually got tired of the photo shoot and moved under a large fern.
We travelled to Merida for a few days before Christmas and stayed at the Gran Hotel, just off the main square. A hundred years old. A very regal old place. Needs a bit of TLC but still great architecture. This is the view of the courtyard and front desk from the second floor. What a grand staircase. Lots of antiques and old photos on the wall.
While in Merida, we signed up for the Cuzama Cenote tour. We were joined by a young couple from Mexico City. An hour and a half drive to Cuzama and then to a non-working hacienda. A group of men operate  "trucs" (coverted rail carts) that take visitors to 3 different cenotes. The trucs go into the hacienda about 9 kilometers. Notice the narrow tracks. These were once used to haul the hennequin (sisal) from the fields to the processing plants. The tracks, which you to go all over the hacienda and into town, have all been ripped up except for the ones used by the cenotes guides.
This is the entrance to the first cave/cenote. To get to the cave, we climbed down the tree roots to a homemade ladder.  The cenote was more like an underground river.  The only light came from the guide's flashlight.  He was a very important man to us!  What an adventure.
The main entrance to the second cenote, 9 Mouseholes, is one of the "mouse holes". The 9 holes let in beautiful light below. This 20 foot ladder was well constructed and led to a poured concrete platform. The opening had been chipped away to make it larger.

Looking down as Peggy near the bottom.
Inside the cenote. It was probably about 80 feet in diameter and maybe 30 feet deep. As usual there was a tree near main opening with roots reaching down to the water. Makes for a pretty dramatic sight, no?
 The ladder - Peggy just likes this photo!
Back on the truc to the last cenote. This little horse seemed to love pulling us! He clopped along and jumped from one side of the tracks to the other. When we arrived at a cenote, the horse was untied and just grazed freely. If we met another truc coming our way, we stopped and the guide pulled the truc off the tracks and then reset it when the other passed us. He who had the fewest passengers, yielded the right of way! The guide dog ran along behind and he too seemed to just love the 18 kilometer trip. We have a wonderful mental video of this "rail" trip in our brains.  Thankfully it's in our brains because we don't have the video on our camera! About half way to the farthest cenote, a section of the tracks was missing. So we had to walk about 100 yards. The horse had to pull the truc over the sand. It seems that a competing group of cenote guides stole that section of track! Oue guide said that his group would re-lay that section in a few weeks. He didn't say where they'd get the tracks! Probably would steal them from a different competing group!
The last cenote. A really big one. About 80 feet across and over 100 feet deep. A guide dropped his cellphone (actually 2 of them) and the water was so clear that the phones could been seen resting on the bottom. Way too deep for a surface dive to retrieve them?
Another random pic, this one of linens at the Gran Hotel.
Decorated Christmas tree at the Palacio (main government office) just off the square in Merida. We took lots of photos for familes using their cameras! Could have stayed there for hours doing that!  One of our last trips here, Ed went in an office to see if he could meet the governor.  The governor wasn't there but he sure scared a security guard who was reading a newspaper with his feet propped up on the governor's desk!
A restaurant we visited in Merida. A converted old home. Just beautiful. Had "pok chuc" for dinner. That's a marinated pork cut into strips. Delicious along with a local beer, Montejo!
The two cats who adopted us a couple of years ago were still here when we arrived this year. Neighbors Matt and Deb fed them all summer, along with our house caretaker, Dan. Here's the orange kitty sleeping in the kitchen window between the window and the protectoras (wrought iron bars). She's pretty comfy here.  This is the cat who will cry for us to turn on the hose so that she can have a drink.

Campeche Part III


The following 3 posts were started last year.  It's a rainy day here so a good time for memories.

Edzna

We signed up for a tour of Edzna. The ruins are outside of Campeche. We were the only ones to sign up for the tour so it was a private tour. A very amazing place. Pretty much all excavated and reconstructed. 




The main square pyramid. If we had been Mayans this is where we would have lived, no doubt!
The carving still has the paint and color on it. Pretty amazing after 1,000 or so years.

We think there were only a couple of people at the ruins besides us.
A jade burial mask found at one of the jillions of places we want to see, Calakmul.  Calakmul is a huge swath of preserved land in Mexico and Guatamala.  

This is a carved column. The rock is volcanic and since there's no volcanos on the Yucatan penninsula, it had to have been transported here. It probably cme from Guatamala or Hunduras. But, of course, the mystery is how was this 12 foot hunk of stone get moved? Ed says aliens!

Saturday, January 10, 2015

Campeche Part II

When the wall around Campeche was built, as is reasonable, it was right at the edge of the water.   Since pirates no longer were a threat, the city started filling in its shoreline so that now it is about a quarter mile away from the wall.  It has a wonderful walking/biking path that runs along the shore for miles with statues along the way.

We went to one of two forts built by the Spanish to defend the city.  Ed is standing on the walkway to the entrance over the moat.

The well manicured moat with one of the several lookouts.

This fort holds incredible treasures that have been recovered from ruins in the area.  We can't remember how old this guy is but really, he's really old!  Trust us!

Add to your mental image of this lookout the probably more than 30 cannons and you can see the pirates didn't have many moves!

Campeche

Campeche

What a beautiful old walled city south of Merida on the Gulf of Mexico.  Most of the wall is intact and the remaining portions are being rebuilt so that at some point, people can walk around the city on the wall.  Our 3 days there were filled with seeing old buildings, doing both impromptu tours(an older man kinda kidnapped us taking us up to walk on the wall without the possiblity of our exit without him. It's complicated!) and organized tours (a trolley car tour of the city at sunset, nice!),  hanging out with clowns and eating some great seafood.
The main plaza in Campeche.  The church was started in the 1500's and was finished in the 1800's. The plaza is always filled with people sitting on shaded benches and kids feeding pigeons!

It truly is sparkling clean and colorful within the walls of the city.  Since it's a Unesco World Heritage site, building owners were provided the funds to paint their buildings.  Even vacant lots are bordered by colorful walls. 

We're talking friendly in Campeche.  This wedding shop owner and Ed became good buds after the owner showed Ed the caguamas (big bottles of beer)in his fridge!

Yes the street  IS as deep and narrow as it looks.  To get up on the sidewalk, there are stairs cut in the concrete at the street corners.  We'd like to see how the drivers get out after they park!

A bonus during our visit to Campeche was a national clown convention.
Our hotel was perfect.  Over 200 years old, with 2 foot thick walls, it is a cool retreat midday.  It was a military barracks in a  previous life.  We don't think that they had the cool pool back then though
The ceilings are probably 12 feet high  with  old beams that will probably last another few centuries! For some reason we didn't get a pic of the common areas but if you're interested, there are some good ones on TripAdvisor for Hotel Castelmar.

One of the gates to the city built in the 1700's.  Pirates were a big problem in Campeche.  All of the big names like Henry Morgan were regulars!

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Merida and Mayapan

We have made a good start here after a hefty absence by remembering our blog address.  Although there has been so much to say, we've been silent.  Where to begin again?

We guess we'll just begin with our most recent story. We're back from a trip to Merida and while there we took an incredible tour of the village of Acanceh and the ruin of Mayapan. Here are some random pics.

Merida at night.

 One of our favorite statues in one of the hundreds of little parks in Merida.
 A protected fresco at the top of a pyramid in Acanceh.
 This pyramid is right in the middle of Acanceh together with the central market and the village church and chapel. So amazing to have life continue on around a structure over 2000 years old.
 This pyramid is in Mayapan.  Mayapan was about as big as Chichen Itza but as opposed to the throngs of visitors drawn by Chichen Itza, there were maybe 10 other folks at Mayapan during our time there.
 Ed has found another suitable throne!
 After Acanceh and Mayapan our guide drove us to a tiny village in the jungle.  When we arrived, a throng of very enthuasiastic little boys clambered around the car.  They each wanted to be chosen to guide us to a remote cenote.  The highlight of the day for Peggy was a swim in her "private" cenote.  Below is a picture taken looking into the depths of this sinkhole.  The source of light is actually a reflection of the sun in the water.  Amazing! 
 Although this cenote was about 50 feet down from the ground with no other light but the sun, look how bright it is.  Again, amazing!

Wednesday, December 25, 2013